Japan urbanism: Emergent Tokyo (2022). China-US NatSec: China's Evolving Military Strategy (2016), China's Information Warfare (2024). 摸着石头过河, learning as I go.
I've lived a lucky life. Occasional hard spots, but overall? Just fantastically lucky. And yet a half decade ago, moving to Tokyo with a vague dream of studying the megacity, I never imagined luck like this. Grateful beyond words to everyone who's decided to give our book a read!
One trick I learned from Tokyo that helps for understanding any city: when you come across a charming small biz in a sea of generic chains, ask them about their relationship with their landlord. For example, this is the fantastic Alabaster Bookshop, near Union Square in NYC...
The story varies but the trend is clear: a city w/ unconventional small landlords is a city that's friendlier to idiosyncratic small businesses, the sort of spots that don't turn a big profit but that collectively make a place feel like a *place*, not a generic everywhere/nowhere
They have a landlord with a motive other than strict profit and loss; the co-op has a stake in the area and likes the idea of having a bookstore downstairs. Alabaster isn't just one more line item on a spreadsheet to them. Talking to other small biz around NYC, they all have...
The
#1
source of these unconventional landlord relationships in Tokyo is banned in most of our cities: under Japan's zoning, homeowners can put nearly any small biz in the bottom floor of their rowhouse, by-right! Any retiree who owns their house is a potential small biz landlord
And often, they're not looking to get maximum return on their space, they'd just like something nice downstairs for the neighborhood they live in and care about. It's a completely different mindset from a large commercial real estate company that results in a different townscape.
If we want cities that feel organic and spontaneous and real, the quickest way to get there is to give people the freedom to do things with their homes other than just live in them. The endless worry about property values that leads to restrictive zoning kills urban spontaneity.
A story about how their unconventional relationship with their landlord that allows them to survive. Maybe their family has owned the building for ages. Maybe the landlord grew up in the neighborhood and wants to keep the old flavor alive. Sometimes it's just "bored rich people."
So, in a neighborhood like that, businesses like Alabaster that defy that consensus tend to stand out. I was talking to the staff about the business, and I asked them, essentially, "why are you here instead of a Chipotle?" -- the answer? A co-op owns the building above them.
In Tokyo, if you have a two story house in a residential neighborhood, *by right* you can put a restaurant/bar/boutique/workshop inside the ground floor of your house! Gives the backstreets a totally different feel to walking through a US neighborhood with nothing but residences.
Today on my morning walk to get fresh bread for breakfast, I passed a very tiny home bakery near my house. I love these tiny businesses in the suburbs that people run from their living rooms! I’ll be coming again. (The lemon pie is divine!)
Alabaster is in a part of town that is, shall we say, "generically bougie." The dining & retail here aren't actively *bad*, but they're generic w/ no history or connection to the neighborhood, interchangeable with every other place, only here b/c a profit loss calculation says so
@AlexYablon
This, *plus* the ability to set up fun little ideas (businesses, or things even less formal than that) in cheap/free spaces. Cheap living, cheap creating. That's the formula. Many ways to get there, but you don't keep anywhere weird without it.
Tokyo is an interesting counterpoint to this! Not a lot of old architecture in most of the city. But the intimate *layout* of Tokyo's old school neighborhoods, designed for human-scale community rather than cars, makes for a magical city. "Vernacular architecture" is nice, but...
Do you ever feel that older cities are just more interesting than new ones?
Well, it isn't just because they're old.
It's because of something called "vernacular architecture"...
Since Japan is closed off to foreign tourism right now, the streets of Kyoto that are normally absolutely thronged with people are eerily quiet and peaceful. A version of Kyoto I'll probably never see again in my lifetime once Japan reopens.
@3Maccc
@aardvarsk
What often happens in your 30s is, you move in the direction of what you truly want for yourself, not what others expect. For an introvert, maybe that's relaxing at home. For me as a hyper-extrovert, it's flying to see different friends every other weekend b/c that's my joy 🙂
Btw, if anyone reading this would like a beautiful and informative book that explains why Tokyo works the way it does, and what cities around the world can learn from it - with tons of cool visuals and infographics - you're in luck, I just co-wrote one 🙂
@ElieNYC
When I heard about the farmers swapping recipes for putting poison in their food supplies that the Russian troops would be stealing, I knew this was going to end very badly for whoever thought the Ukrainians would just roll over and accept their new overlords
@mtgDAO
This is seriously the kindest (and most justified) C&D letter towards a fan project I've ever seen. Please for the love of god accept this and move on.
@dieworkwear
100% correct! And your health care is cheap, and you get mom-and-pop tax breaks, and folks can easily reach you by transit, and zoning means your workshop can be anywhere. For anyone who'd like to bring this vibrancy to American cities, a shameless plug:
Arfiya did it!!! History made, both globally and in Japan. She's now the first Uyghur elected official holding national office in any of the world's democracies, and she's going to be a progressive force in the LDP.
Home cooking for the local public is also way less regulated. The little grandmas in the neighborhood selling tasty bento lunch boxes for 5 bucks each aren't dealing with some giant bureaucracy. They just cook, people trust in it, and things work out okay.
Plenty of little economic incentives help you along the way. If you run it as a small biz, you can keep a share of the sales tax you collect, and get income tax breaks. Cheap universal health care means you're not screwed without a 9 to 5 job. Liquor licenses? A minor formality.
@noahsloss
Various sorts, yes! A) keep sales tax you collect up until a certain amount of sales, b) write off most/all your income taxes unless you're pretty successful, c) universal health insurance, d) liquor licenses etc are an easy-peasy pittance (booze makes more microbiz profitable)
This is Arfiya Eri, one of my oldest friends, running for an at-large seat in the House of Councillors, the Japanese senate. The first Uyghur election candidate backed by a major party anywhere in the world. Beyond making history, let me tell you a bit about her, what she's like.
...if we have to focus on one thing, I'd rather we focus on how we lay out our neighborhoods -- how we make them walkable, how we allow local mom-and-pops to thrive -- rather than pining for an architectural past that simply isn't coming back. For example, in our book we talk...
@alexisohanian
Every possible shred of evidence we have suggests the industry is moving in the opposite direction. Compare Diablo 4, out this week, to Diablo 3, which allowed 'play-to-earn' and mostly infuriated the fanbase. Turns out people like their hobbies as hobbies, not as side hustles!
...about "Pocket Tokyo" neighborhoods, where modern offices on the main streets surround an inner block with dense older housing and labyrinthine alleys. The inner neighborhood feels intimate and walkable, full of mom-and-pops that the office workers can patronize during the day.
@JordanUhl
She's not a clear communicator but this seems like a misreading of her clear intent -- that since the Senate GOP won't sign off on 2k, this is just grandstanding by Trump that will delay the stimulus. That's debatable logic, but she's clearly not mad about the idea of 2k checks!
And if your neighbor doesn't like the idea of living next door to a bar? Well, you talk it out. A tiny 6-seat bar isn't going to get rowdy, and if it did, the neighbor could escalate complaints to the local block council or even the cops. In practice, big incentive to compromise.
Zakkyo buildings! The buildings that make up Tokyo's iconic 'neon nightlife' that you see in the movies. Buildings where every floor has its own little micro-businesses, full of delights and secrets, instead of mainly the ground floor having public uses like one sees in US cities
@franzsch2
@MattZeitlin
These outfits were pretty normal even then (at least in Cali), it was more the contrast with how they were dressed for the rest of the movie I think?
@dklmarxist
...yes? The Soviet Union was a brutal dictatorship, and any leftist worth their salt (aka not embarrassments like Parenti) spoke forcefully to that reality at the time.
Xinjiang is trending on Twitter again, which inevitably means the CCP's influence ops botnets spin up to push the "actually, everything is fine, nothing to see here" narrative, but this latest batch is even more transparent than usual:
@Noahpinion
Ayyy, Japan inheritance tax discussion fun time! The tax has fluctuated over the postwar period, at present it's relatively mild - first ~250k exempt then starts at 10%. But in the postwar past it's sometimes been massive and required you to pay the whole thing up front, which...
We've got a plane sitting on the tarmac (not Kabul). Got over a hundred Afghan refugees - AMAZING civil society activists - nearby, ready to fly to safety.
But we currently have *no country* willing to accept the flights. Why? Best guess: the world hates refugees. So they wait.
@MazMHussain
Americans, in general, are not nearly as skeptical of the rich as they should be. There's a critical mass of Americans for whom wealth seems to infer expertise, IMHO in large part because they imagine themselves becoming wealthy, and so they take the rich as aspirational figures.
The joys of working at an open-source intelligence collection org: one of my co-workers has been steadily mapping another co-worker's apartment, using the pictures he posts in our group DM of life with his cats
@DSA_Intl_Comm
What "exacerbates the war" is Putin thinking he has the arms advantage to win. Sending arms to Ukraine for self defense is the principled anti-war position.
So when I had dinner at Dersou in Paris in July, I was craving a creamsicle (don't judge me) & asked them to make me a "creamy and fruity" cocktail, and it was one of the best things I've ever had! ...friend just went back, discovered they added it to the menu named after me 😭
@rabonour
@JakeAnbinder
I don't think it's a fetishization -- I think informality in urban life really does fill a meaningful psychological need! The issue here is that we're so starved for it in most American cities, such that we'll seize on even the most basic interactions in search of that feeling
This is a thing I constantly hear from folks who don't speak Japanese and are only engaging with the slice of Japan that speaks English. It skews your perception - if you came to the US and only interacted with John Kerry's family you'd think we were all an aloof monoculture too!
The Afghan evac effort is making real progress, but catastrophe is looming. If we keep to the 8/31 date for withdrawal, v likely most of the Afghans who worked with us will be left behind to suffer or die. We need a full court press on our politicians: evac until the job is done.
@BeijingPalmer
seems like a lot of people on twitter define 'communism' as a cross between "the world will finally work the way I personally want it to" and "an identity that can hopefully shock the well-to-do parents I'm rebelling against, since sex and drugs don't scandalize the olds anymore"
There isn't a number, the goal is to *not* sacrifice any lives, because deterrence didn't fail, b/c our defense commitment shifted the PRC's cost/benefit of resolving disputes diplomatically versus resolving them militarily. (Jeet is discussing the Senkakus, for anyone wondering)
Out of all the different signs you see on bars in the Golden Gai microbar district of Tokyo telling you who is and isn't welcome, this one is my favorite. 😂
(The substance of the sign:
English: "Members Only"
Japanese: "...is not our policy")
@Noahpinion
...has been a major shaping force on Tokyo's cityscape. To pay an up-front inheritance tax, heirs would divide up an urban lot and sell off part of it, which is how you get narrower and narrower lots and a 'finer-grained' cityscape that makes Tokyo so charming. So for those...
@wesyang
(sounds like somebody down the chain is exaggerating for effect based on what we know of the stats, but even if it's only half that, the more erosion of the gender binary the better off we all are)
@Noahpinion
..asking Noah "why does it matter," it's had an impact both on the national level for reducing disparities of wealth and concentrations of wealth/power across generations, but also shaping Japan's cityscapes in cool ways that we now reap the benefits of. Yay for inheritance taxes
Joe's Haunts in Tokyo, a continuing series: the Shosen Grande bookstore, the largest railway/transit-focused bookstore in the world! Note well - their top floors are the transit goodness; their basement is 100% porn. Clientele are thus a unique mix of transit nerds and perverts.
@SciEdHenry
@jdesmondharris
I liked how my boss always put it, when he was going out on a limb for us... "I'm not breaking up the band." Sets a more reasonable standard than 'family,' but speaks to the fact that he was thinking about the team beyond just dollars & cents, and demonstrated it w/ his choices.
@ericriveracooks
Eric, I mostly love your stuff, but as a) someone who researches Japanese restaurant culture professionally and b) who's spent a ton of time in Australia, Australian hand rolls really are a unique thing unlike what you get in Japanese hand rolls *or* in supermarket sushi...
Arfiya's had an incredible career - the Bank of Japan, the United Nations - but the connecting thread is that she's spent her adult life trying to build a more just world. For the Uyghurs, for women in Japan, for anyone treated unfairly. Her platform is...
Amazing how many lives
@what3words
has saved over the past week. When Afghans are in need of rescuing, it's been by far the easiest tool to get their location in a hurry. No idea who built it or for what purpose, but what a godsend.
""Biden has referred to Chinese President Xi Jinping as a “thug” and vowed to lead an international campaign to “pressure, isolate and punish China.” His campaign has also labeled China’s actions against Muslims in Xinjiang “genocide” – a step further than current policy""
@noahsloss
And during Japan's COVID lockdowns, my understanding is that bars/restaurants got a flat ~600USD a day to comply -- that's nothing for Applebee's, but more than the average microbar was pulling in during normal operation! Helped many spots survive.
"Japan is a conformist country" is a thing that people tell themselves as a consolation prize for why we don't have the great things that they do. "If we tried that here, it wouldn't work, because we're just so much more free spirited and individualistic, you see."
But in fact..
@David_Benger
@isaiah_bb
Eli Valley is a pioneer of the Jewish American diaspora discourse! his stuff is generally pretty great, if a bit on the nose sometimes. Here's an essay Eli wrote for Jewish Currents that goes deep into the thinking behind his work:
...most of the stuff we love about Japan could work here too, if our public policies supported it. That means political battles over zoning, over health care, over transit. A city where you can set up a tiny pub for $2k startup cost gets more tiny pubs, this isn't rocket science!
Tokyo has *ten times* as many bars and restaurants as New York City, by a conservative count. And far more often than in NYC, the person behind the counter is an owner/operator marching to the beat of their own drum & creating a physical space that embodies their personal vision.
@Noahpinion
I love that internet photosleuthing on that thread reveals that this photo was taken in like 2017 and she's just a retro enthusiast. The past lives on as subculture!
@RnaudBertrand
@WillBugya
Glad you've established a precedent for who the Taiwan Strait belongs to then! And the Uyghur Autonomous Region. And the Indian Sea. 😂 Thank you for your vocal support of separatist movements!
@czapary
The ATVs are fine! They add character to U Street. A huge part of why residents complain about them is that they're associated with young Black kids, and there's tons of racism in the surrounding community. DC has only had 6 ATV-linked deaths in 30 years, safety isn't the issue.
When you don't give high-achieving kids a 'lane' of some kind in public schools, they'll go private and the public school system suffers as a result of their exodus, plain and simple. We can argue about how to design that lane, but taking it away won't improve anyone's outcomes.
Every time I took a one-hour UberX from my DC house to my VA office for as low as $7 in 2018, I'd daydream some Venture Capitalist had just lit a small pile of money on fire for my benefit. RETVRN to $20 bonobos pants on 80% off sale, and better-yet-half-the-price JetBlue flights
The serendipity of Tokyo strolls: Jiyucho ("free town"), a little shop in the Kuramae backstreets that encourages you to write letters to yourself a year from now, relax, maybe swap a book or two. The sort of place that doesn't exist to make a profit, but makes a city feel alive.
The thing that makes cyberpunk cities in Blade Runner or wherever feel so much more compelling than our own cities isn't the future tech! It's the feeling they convey of possibility and urban exploration, a city where not everything is same-y fast casual dining and chain retail.
""Many great cities become museums of themselves, their lack of new development an homage to their glory days. Tokyo refuses to do this. In a country that is aging and economically stagnant, Tokyo pushes ever forward into the realm of its own possibilities.""
Tokyo is to the early 21st century what Paris was to the early 20th -- not the world's financial hub, but its artistic and cultural heart. Not the center of the world, but the world's greatest city.
@wesyang
So, I'm Jewish, but for all intents and purposes in an office, white privilege. I work in imho a fairly 'woke' office. I feel zero discomfort/tension on this front! I hear people on Twitter saying "it's so uncomfortable to be a white guy rn" and it feels like a dispatch from Mars
We didn't 'abandon' anything -- China abandoned the previous détente around Taiwan, by moving towards an increasingly militaristic posture and beating the war drums, even in response to Tsai's cautious and moderate approach. We're reacting sensibly; PRC choices have consequences.
I have been told that Ratner’s speech was approved by the White House. So this was no DoD statement, much less Ratner riffing. The US has now abandoned the 1 CN policy that has kept the peace in the TW strait 4 decades n placed us on a path 2ward conflict.
@mattyglesias
To be honest: I've been reading your stuff for 15 years or so. I like a lot of your stuff! But feels like lately you've been bitten by the Nate Silver bug of "every idea I might toss off unformed at a party is worth a tweet," and I wish you'd hit pause a bit more and take it slow
This tweet is interesting, but for an unexpected reason: it's a window into the Twitter Grifter economy. People like this who posture like they're doing big things, aiming to go viral with 'relatable' tweets -- always with a GoFundMe link attached -- but when you investigate...
@ad_mastro
My golden rule of any home construction/reno project: no matter how much you're paying, show up at least semi-regularly to supervise the work yourself, or you'll wish you had down the road