W. David Marx @wdavidmarx Twitter profile

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W. David Marx

10 months

I wrote two books: • Ametora, a cultural history of Japanese menswear • Status and Culture, a general theory explaining how culture works, and how social competition leads to creativity, change, and stability (+ how the internet altered the entire model)

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

1 year

Cool new trend in Japan is to wear vintage sweatshirts from summer camps for Orthodox Jewish girls in upstate New York. Here's Camp Spatt

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

18 days

The 1999 film "Go" is not great cinema, due to its obvious ersatz Tarantino quality (i.e. monologues on pop culture, interweaving stories, dry humor about death/injury) BUT it's an interesting historical relic that reveals a few major turning points in culture...

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

2 years

How A Single Bad Drug Trip Led to Japanese Technopop 🧵 In the early 1970s, bassist Haruomi Hosono of the band Happy End was jamming with his friends at a Tokyo studio, when someone passed around a joint. Hosono thought it would be very cool to take a double-sized hit.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

5 years

Japanese couples out on the town in 1974, some in "pair look" (aka "twinning"). #japanesefashion

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

1 year

Copper facade, Toranomon, Tokyo

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

5 months

Once upon a time, there was an incredible bar near Ueno called Once Upon a Time, housed inside of a rare Meiji-era brick warehouse. The landowner long wanted to tear it down, and he finally got his wish this year.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

29 days

New York streetwear shopping map from late 2001

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

6 years

1980s "Pair Look" in Japan

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

1 year

Vivienne Westwood had (at least) two extremely consequential influences on Japanese fashion: (1) Masayuki Yamazaki's shop Cream Soda (which turned Harajuku into a youth fashion neighborhood) took its core ideas from Westwood and McLaren's shop Too Fast To Live, Too Young To Die

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

3 years

A great joy of walking Tokyo is hunting for the remaining buildings with patinaed copper façades — dōban kenchiku (銅板建築). The style was a fad in Eastern Japan during the early Shōwa Era.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

11 months

A lot of classic Tokyo establishments have been closing, including Tōnyūsha, a Ningyōchō eatery that opened in 1889. It's one of the city's best kanban kenchiku "billboard architecture" buildings.

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@wdavidmarx

7 years

Orson Welles for Nikka whiskey, 1976. "ORSON WELLES, he is really a man" "The more I drink, the better it is." "I am satisfied now."

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

2 years

AMETORA MINI-STORIES #2 Why Japanese Fashion Magazines Look Like Catalogs One of the most distinctive features of Japanese magazines is their similarity to catalogs: lots and lots of products laid out along with prices and retailers. The origin is, oddly, the US counterculture.

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@wdavidmarx

5 years

Japanese Preppy Couples, 1982. Nagoya Edition. #ametora #pairlook #twinning #japanesefashion

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

11 months

Popeye doing its first Seoul city guide issue feels like a positive step in Japan-Korea relations, or at least, a sign of the ongoing hybridization of Tokyo and Seoul culture

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

3 years

I've found a new vibe, and it's Misha the bear mascot at the 1980 Moscow Olympics' opening ceremony

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

2 years

AMETORA MINI-STORIES #3 🧵 Why Japanese Teenage Delinquents are Called Yankii In Japanese, the word used for working-class teenage delinquents is "yankii" (ヤンキー), which seems to derive from Yankee. But stereotypical yankii style doesn't look very American... so why yankii?

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

4 years

Fashion designer Kansai Yamamoto passed away this week. He styled David Bowie, and with Kenzo and Issey Miyake, was among the first wave of Japanese designers to break through in the West. Yamamoto also played an indirect role in the rise of Japanese Fifties-revival style.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

8 months

I'm always interested in the question "What is culture?" and here's one answer. (Translation: "Gyoza with beer is culture.")

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

5 months

The downstairs bar felt like a British or New England college clubhouse, and the upstairs loft space was filled with guitars, records, and old Macintoshes. There was nothing else like it in Tokyo. Now it's gone forever.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

2 months

Paris Hilton's Art Theory Tutorial (taken from her memoir)

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

18 days

First it's an ultimately *uncool* movie that captures the awkward, adrift aesthetics of post-grunge America — e.g. the Fatboy Slim big beat "electronica" soundtrack. But since raves never nestled into American pop culture, the characters feel like they're cosplaying "rave"

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

6 years

Jesse Jackson '88 campaign T-shirts are the hottest shirts in Asia at the moment.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

18 days

But in looking not so dated, "Go" reveals the exact moment where culture reached a stability point that has stretched out to today. And since culture was already slowing down in 1999, when the internet was still niche, stasis can't all be technology's fault.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

1 year

Japanese art director Mitsuo Shindō, the man most responsible for the "look" of Shibuya-kei, has passed away at 75

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

18 days

"Go" also shows you why The Strokes arrived in 2001 like gods: while electronica seemed to be "in," downtown NYC desired something more raw. Everyone sold their turntables for guitars. "Go" is represents the last moment where "maybe turntables are the future"

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

9 months

A new updated version of Ametora will be on sale September 26. I'm going to be in NYC, Milan, Paris, and London for book talks. More details soon.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

11 months

Stylist Akio Hasegawa (who jumpstarted the big silhouette/ chino trend at Popeye 6+ years ago) has a store called andreM hoffwann in a reformed factory space in the old Kuramae warehousing district of East Tokyo. Here's the door.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

2 years

Damn I missed a call from my friend Scam Likely.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

1 year

RIP

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

6 months

In parallel to the late 1970s Ivy revival and Preppy boom in Japanese menswear, women's fashion focused on a homegrown posh style called Hamatora (Yokohama Traditional) based on crewneck sweatshirts and clothing sold at Yokohama boutiques patronized by wealthy families.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

6 years

I picked up a pack of early '80s Japanese "Nameneko" yankii-rebel cat postcards yesterday at Tokyo Book Park. #nameneko #ametora

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

1 year

The abandoned luxury hotel Hachijō Oriental Resort on Hachijōjima island is one of the creepiest places I've ever visited

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

1 year

Wong Kar-wai's "Days of Being Wild" still wins for the most inexplicable ending of any film: a three-minute introduction to a brand new character played by Tony Leung, with zero context, who doesn't do anything

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

11 months

Yasuhiko Kobayashi cover illustrations for the 1980s' Japanese pub Skier Magazine

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

2 years

The five eras of art-versus-commerce: 1. Avant-garde: True art can’t be commercial 2. Indie: True art shouldn’t be commercial 3. Poptimism: Art can still be good even if it’s commercial 4. Ultra-poptimism: Commercial art is the best art 5. NFT era: Commerce is art

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

18 days

Scott Wolf's jacket and Jay Mohr's hair are very, very 1999, but people today still sort of look like the people in the movie. This makes the movie not quite strange enough to be full camp/kitsch retro. The Nineties-ness of aesthetic is subtle.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

2 years

To describe Japanese newspapers and TV as a cartel sounds like conspiracy-thinking, but obviously they're all aware that the "specific group" Abe's assassin felt animosity toward was the Unification Church. They're just coordinating to withhold that information: i.e. a cartel

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

18 days

More interestingly: There are a ton of mediocre 1960s movies (e.g., The Trip, The Wild Angels) that became cult classics because they so embody the specific Sixties vibe. But "Go" only barely represents a unique set of styles compared to today — and it's 25 years old!

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

5 years

Hot Yuppie date spots in Tokyo, 1989: GIGER BAR Bring your date to the Tokyo bar designed by Swiss artist H. R. Giger of "Alien" fame, where "the atmosphere differs from the usual." "Alien eggs" on the menu at ¥1200, and something called "sexual communion" for ¥1500.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

1 year

Pretty sure this Tokyo scooter store is making a reference to legendary NYC record shop Other Music?

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

7 years

On Sukajan: This image of "Yokosuka jumpers" in the Mar '68 issue of Men's Club is maybe first time the jackets were treated as "fashion"

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

1 year

Announcement: I'm joining the Board of Directors of NIGO's company Otsumo (maker of HUMAN MADE and more) as an Outside Director. 🦆🐯🐻 お知らせ: NIGO様の手掛けるライフスタイルブランド「HUMAN MADE」を運営するオツモ株式会社で社外取締役に選任されました。

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

4 months

Marshall McLuhan predicted newspapers' current crisis back in 1964: "The classified ads (and stock-market quotations) are the bedrock of the press. Should an alternative source of easy access to such diverse daily information be found, the press will fold."

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

1 year

Pre-war Japanese higher-school student art

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

1 year

The café Blue Train in Toyama, Japan is obsessed with Japanese trains. Little model trains run on a track around you as you drink Dutch coffee and eat "three-color" toast. #kissa #喫茶店

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

11 months

Stalking old dudes wearing VAN Jacket

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

3 years

The city emblem of Otaru, Hokkaido makes it look like they're really into Jewish baseball.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

6 months

Shōsuke Ishizu, "Take Ivy" author, son of VAN Jacket founder Kensuke Ishizu, and part of the core group who brought Ivy League fashion to Japan at Men's Club and then VAN, has passed away at 88.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

2 years

Hosono's drug-trip recovery music inspired his next three albums — Tropical Dandy, Bon Voyage Co., and Paraiso — all rooted in exotica.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

5 months

This essay has a compelling thesis: the internet is like music and SNL seasons, where we love the net-culture we grew up with and disparage subsequent generations' versions. But there are few other factors that made many ex-young people so vocal about "decline" this year:

Kate Knibbs 🏄🏻‍♀️

@Knibbs

5 months

My grand unifying theory of why [some of us think] the internet sucks now

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

1 year

Akiko Yano's album "Iroha ni konpeitou" 『いろはにこんぺいとう』from 1977 is arguably the first Japanese synth-pop record and maybe has the greatest album cover of all time

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

3 years

I made a supercut of the guy rave dancing from the 808 State's "Cubik"

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

2 years

I published my second book "Status and Culture" today from @VikingBooks . If you're interested in learning how culture works (and how status leads to its creation and transformation), please give it a read.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

4 years

Today I learned that the Japanese name of "Caddyshack" is... "Balls Balls"

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

2 years

Live life with the same intensity as the apologetic demeanor of illustrated avatars inside Japanese ATM cancellation screens

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

2 years

AMETORA MINI-STORIES #1 The Little-Known Origin of A BATHING APE's Brand Name In 1993, NIGO® and Jun Takahashi opened their boutique NOWHERE in the backstreets of Harajuku under the tutelage of Hiroshi Fujiwara.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

18 days

I saw this movie on opening night and even then it felt a bit ersatz/uncool. (And I liked Doug Liman!) "Go"'s opening credits scream 1999 to me, but I don't think this aesthetic was ever truly a major and rooted part of American youth culture

Go (1999) Columbia Logo & Opening Credits

(full version without commentary)

www.youtube.com

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

2 years

”Firecracker” didn't sell 4 mil copies worldwide, but in their global success, YMO influenced the Belleville Three and Michael Jackson. And back home, the frenzy around YMO caused nearly every Japanese '80s pop single to abandon live instrumentation for synthesized backtracks.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

2 years

The first recording of "Firecracker" used live instruments and didn't work. It needed electronic elements. Sakamoto programmed the song into a Roland MC-8, and the resulting technopop inspired them to record an entire album as Yellow Magic Orchestra.

Yellow Magic Orchestra - Firecracker (1978)

Track 2 on 'Yellow Magic Orchestra' (1978)Written by Martin DennyLYRICS:Instrumental-uploaded in HD at http://www.TunesToTube.com

www.youtube.com

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

1 year

(2) Hiroshi Fujiwara, the godfather of Harajuku street fashion, was obsessed with Westwood's Seditionaries as a teen, visited London, and hung out at Westwood's World's End shop. McLaren told him to go to NY to see hiphop and he brought the first hiphop 12"s back to Japan.

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@wdavidmarx

8 years

New Yorker ( @NewYorker ) just published my piece on the origins of 1965 photo book Take Ivy

Stalking the Wild Madras Wearers of the Ivy League

When the original edition of “Take Ivy” hit shelves, fashion wasn’t a point of Japanese national pride. It was a matter for law enforcement.

www.newyorker.com

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

1 year

A brief history of Kazuo Hozumi's Ivy Boy illustrations:

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

5 years

Hooray for Marie (Iida)!

Marie Kondo’s brilliant interpreter is the unsung hero of the KonMari phenomenon

“It’s honestly amazing how well she catches all the nuances of the Japanese language.”

qz.com

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

2 years

To heal himself, Hosono read New Age tome "The Human Miracle: Transcendent Psychology" and listened exclusively to birdsong and other tranquil music. In particular he relied on exotica musician Martin Denny's "jungle sound" records, which he knew from post-war AM radio.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

2 years

Scenes from the lost 1980 NHK documentary "Wakai Hiroba Harajuku 24 Jikan" (若い広場「原宿24時間」) about the Takenokozoku and Roller-zoku youth tribes who danced every Sunday in Harajuku. #harajuku

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

1 year

Copper façade, Shibuya, Tokyo #銅板建築

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

6 years

COMME des GARÇONS Homme store, Tokyo 1982

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

1 year

This very cool new book Crafted with Pride lists out 750 apparel and footwear brands made in the U.S.A. (extremely reminiscent of Japanese guides)

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

6 years

I wrote a cultural history of American fashion in Japan called "Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style" English (2015): 日本語 (2017):

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

8 months

These are generally excellent rules and this one about Japanese denim is very funny

Yang-Yi Goh

@yanggoh

8 months

very stoked this big, unwieldy, extremely fun @GQMagazine package on the dos and don'ts of style is finally live. huge team effort w some great guest bits from @NifMuhammad , @ilariaurbinati , and more. plz read it, debate it, learn from it, hate on it, etc

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

6 years

POMO = Pleasure Of Missing Out

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

2 years

My new book Status and Culture (on sale 8/30) synthesizes what we know about status and social behavior to explain taste, fashion, art, and other common cultural phenomenon. I thought it would be helpful to list out the classic books for understanding how culture works (1/n):

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

1 year

Vintage matchbox from the Imperial Hotel Tokyo

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

3 years

On walks in Tokyo, you often encounter enormous gated compounds in the middle of the city with very little explanation. Here's one in Shirokane.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

4 months

NEW BOOK NEWS: I am writing my third book for @VikingBooks — a cultural history of the 21st century — to be published in late 2025. It will bring the narrative storytelling of Ametora together with the theory of Status and Culture to explain what happened over the last 25 years.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

2 years

Hosono asked drummer Tatsuo Hayashi and guitarist Hiroshi Sato to help record the disco cover of "Firecracker." They declined. In Feb '78 Hosono called his B-team: keyboardist Ryuichi Sakamoto and drummer Yukihiro Takahashi. Over onigiri, he showed them his "4 million" note.

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

7 years

Cream Soda, the Harajuku store that kicked off Japan's Fifties boom, in 1978. Caption says they are selling imported American shirts.

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@wdavidmarx

1 year

Artist Toshiko Okanoue (岡上淑子)'s surrealist collages from the 1950s

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

2 years

In case you missed it, this was an incredible @amandamull story in The Atlantic about the direct effects of lighting-fast fashion cycles on creating our current joyless aesthetics in clothing

Fashion Has Abandoned Human Taste

Stores are stocked with copycat designs. It’s a nightmare.

www.theatlantic.com

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

1 year

Westwood, punk, and hip-hop (+ Stüssy) were the foundational influences on what became the Ura-Harajuku scene. Fujiwara and his two disciples, NIGO and Jun Takahashi of Under Cover, ended up setting the template for what we call "streetwear" today.

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@wdavidmarx

6 years

Tiny bow ties were a signature of the Preppy look in Japan. Photos from 1981. #ametora

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W. David Marx

@wdavidmarx

2 years

Further Japanification of American style: youth embracing once meaningful signifiers as fashion without any pretense of trying to root oneself in an "authentic" community (aka postmodernism) By @beccpicc

Teens Love Old Rock Band T-Shirts. Just Don’t Ask Them to Name a Song.

Rolling Stones and Iron Maiden T-shirts are in fashion among younger generations, even if they’ve never heard the music. ‘It’s a huge letdown when you realize they don’t actually listen to it.’

www.wsj.com

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@wdavidmarx

2 years

The joint was laced or tainted, and Hosono went into a serious panic attack. He thought he was going to die and begged his friends to call an ambulance. They told him to chill out. Hosono managed to get home the next day, but the panic attacks started again and wouldn't go away.

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@wdavidmarx

5 years

OMG this is going to sound sorta crazy but the plot of George Orwell's kids book "Animal Farm" is like an eeriely perfect allegory for Soviet Communism. Let me explain: (1/16)

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@wdavidmarx

1 year

30 years ago today the son of mainstay Hollywood arranger/composer David Campbell won over America after posing like a homeless L.A. folkie weirdo who couldn't speak in complete sentences

Eric Alper 🎧

@ThatEricAlper

1 year

30 years ago today, Beck released "Loser" independently, and began receiving airplay on various modern rock stations, and the song's popularity eventually led to a major-label record deal with Geffen Records-subsidiary DGC Records.

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@wdavidmarx

5 months

1. The internet isn't just entertainment but is supposed to be useful, so the decay of many core platforms creates real efficiency losses for people used to specific ways of retrieving information online — e.g. X is harder to use now for breaking news

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@wdavidmarx

5 months

2. The internet's overall shift towards talk-to-camera short video made for openly commercial reasons has created a major *taste* rift between current users and the initial batch of net-native users. The TikTok vision of the internet has "won" this conflict. We can't go back.

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@wdavidmarx

7 years

Japanese menswear, 1926, modeled by mystery writer Edogawa Ranpo (second from left). A big era for bow ties. (h/t @oldpicture1900 )

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@wdavidmarx

2 years

But even after Martin Denny still haunted Hosono. He wrote down a genius idea on a piece of paper: A disco arrangement of Denny's "Firecracker" that would sell 4 million copies worldwide. (The note apparently also showed a drawing of Mt. Fuji erupting.)

Martin Denny - Firecracker

"Quiet Village - The Exotic Sounds Of Martin Denny" 1959. Original song of The yellow magic orchestra cover

www.youtube.com

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@wdavidmarx

11 months

2nd Magazine did a New Preppy Handbook issue Attn: @trufelman

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@wdavidmarx

6 months

Every billionaire artist is a culture failure

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@wdavidmarx

4 years

A photo of the 1955 "mambo boom" in Japan. (h/t @oldpicture1900 )

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@wdavidmarx

7 years

RIP Dick Bruna. He was famous for Miffy but his 1960s book cover design was incredible.

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@wdavidmarx

1 year

RIP Yukihiro Takahashi, drummer and lead vocals for Yellow Magic Orchestra. He provided the iconic semi-robotic vocals for their most famous songs and composed their big hit "Rydeen" (as a conscious imitation of something Sakamoto would write)

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@wdavidmarx

4 months

The building for the Nanba Buddhist Altar Shop in Asakusa dates from 1929.

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@wdavidmarx

1 year

On De La Soul's Bulhoone Mindstate, there's five full mins of Maceo Parker sax followed by a track called "Long Island Wildin'" that features Japanese rappers Kan Takagi and Scha Dara Parr (and no De La). De La has never explained this, so here is what I pieced together:

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@wdavidmarx

20 days

I wrote a piece for @TheAtlantic about how, just like we've seen with financial arbitrage, the internet makes it a lot harder to engage in "cultural arbitrage" and why that may be contributing to the feeling of cultural stasis

The Diminishing Returns of Having Good Taste

The internet makes most information instantly available. What if that’s why mass culture is so boring?

www.theatlantic.com

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@wdavidmarx

4 years

Happy Publication Day, @Matt_Alt . If you're interested in Japanese pop culture at any level, run out to buy a copy of Matt's new book "Pure Invention: How Japan's Pop Culture Conquered the World" — which tells the rich story from Hello Kitty to the Walkman to 4chan.

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