Leon McCarron @leonmccarron Twitter profile

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Leon McCarron

1 year

Today is publication day for ‘Wounded Tigris’- you can order hardback, digital and audio copies here: Hurray! I have no idea how to feel now that 4 years worth of work is finally released to the world, so I made a short thread:

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

2 years

Happy Newroz from Akre! Here’s to spring and the start of a new year… #newroz #akre #kurdistan

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

4 years

Back in Kurdistan. Surrounded by mountains, dusted by snow and whipped by wind. Nowhere I’d rather be on the 1st Feb...

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

4 years

Back to Rwanduz today. I never get tired of this view!

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

A mudhif in Chibayish, on the edges of the marshlands of Southern Iraq. This is one of the largest and most formal that I’ve seen- 30m long, 6m high, with 17 arches between the entrance and the coffee pots at the back. The Sheikh had called a meeting, which began just as we left

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

The Pope does a lap of the stadium in Erbil, waving to the KRG and international dignitaries, and then to the crowds. I’ve never seen anything quite like this

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

2 years

Lalish, this morning. Sunshine and a cool breeze at the temple. One week until Yazidi new year

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

5 years

Arrived back in Iraqi Kurdistan today for the start of a month or more of work here. Within a few hours of leaving the airport, we were here:

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

Yesterday at Zoragvan valley. A little piece of paradise in the mountains of Kurdistan.

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

Rwanduz canyon today in the rain. Note the waterfall on the right! This is one of the most beautiful places here anytime of year, but today it’s excelling itself...

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

7 years

“Walking is a natural fix- I think my brain seems to work best at 3 miles an hour.” My 3min film on walking is here:

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

2 years

Erbil, right now, in a dust storm. No filter (though iPhone photos do tend to dramatise things a bit.) Still, it’s pretty wild. #erbil

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

Finally walked past this iconic canyon in the Barzan area today. Even more spectacular in real-life; birds of prey overhead and wild goats down below. A beautiful place to sit a while...

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

4 years

A few pictures from yesterday. We’re walking in the Kurdistan region of Iraq, close to Sulaymaniyah. I spent a chunk of last year documenting old trails further north, and hopefully at some point we’ll be able to spend more time down here too. You can see why that’s exciting...

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

Sunrise in Basra, over the Shatt Al-Arab. It’s been a while since I’ve been up this early- must make more of an effort to do it regularly! At 6am the city was silent; streets empty and shops shuttered. Just this single fisherman out to see the dawn

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

Out on the trail here in Kurdistan for a couple of days. Arranged for a *small* breakfast with a few friends before we started hiking. Inevitably, this happened! (And we were all delighted)

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

5 years

We walked past the most remarkable Assyrian site yday. Pictured here is a 2700-yr old winged Lamassu, cuneiform inscription and reliefs eroding in the river. A few dedicated local guardians protect as best they can, but likely much of this will decay completely in near future

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

6 years

The largest gathering of people in the world is underway right now in central Iraq. 20+ million Shia pilgrims have just walked 80+ kilometres to Karbala (peacefully.) I see very little coverage of it in int’l media. Well- I’m here, and I’m a writer. Does anybody want a story?

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

4 years

Back to work! Pictures taken during a couple of days of wandering around Lake Dukan and Sulaymaniyah

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

After the mountains, back to Erbil:

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

1 year

Wounded Tigris: A River Journey through the Cradle of Civilisation. For four years I’ve been working on a story about a river. My new book, published by @CorsairBooks , is out on 6 April 2023. You can sign up for updates here:

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

2 years

Today we walked with this man, Mam Darwish, in Barzan. Here he is standing beside a tree that was planted when he was a baby. He visits once in a while to check on it, and reckons they’re both growing old together gracefully.

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

2 years

In ‘The Marsh Arabs,’ Wilfred Thesiger wrote about his companion, Amara Bin Thuqub, who guided him through Iraq’s wetlands. Now 91, Amara lives in Baghdad, and over the last couple of years I’ve been privileged to get to know him and now to tell his story:

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

4 years

The archaeological site at Khinnis. In 700BC this was of the centre of a vast engineering project to bring water from the mountains to the Nineveh Plains. Today the reliefs and cuneiform are exposed to the elements; see the cuneiform, fading lamassu and submerged figures...

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

In case anyone needs to hear 10 seconds of running water in a forest today...

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

Some autumn beauty on the Zagros Trail in the Kurdistan region this last week

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

5 years

I’m looking for your favourite writers/books on the topic of journeys on foot. What have you got for me, dear Twitter?

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

We were briefly in Babylon last week and made a quick visit to the archaeological site- here the ancient wall depicting the god Marduk; the lion of Babylon; the replica of the Ishtar gate at the entrance; the Euphrates close by. The first 2 are 2500+ years old.

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

Some landscapes from the last few days out on the mountains here in the Kurdistan region of Iraq. This is part of our project to scout a long-distance walking trail that runs west to east, connecting with communities and stories along the way. So far, we have 200km.

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

1 month

In 1908 it was possible to board a train in Istanbul, travel to Damascus, and connect with the Hejaz Railway all the way to Medina. It didn’t last long, but its ambition was remarkable. I followed its route to see what we can learn from it today, for a new book (2026ish!)

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

5 years

Today was the Annual Mountaineering festival in #Kurdistan . It was held in Akre, with 800 hikers from 40+ clubs showing up. “A way for Kurds to redefine our relationship with the mountains,” was the most powerful summary I heard of the growing popularity of the outdoor scene here

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

2 years

Happy Easter, from the trails, caves, mountains and rivers here in the Kurdistan region of Iraq

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

4 years

Back to Akre. This is one of the best views of the Old Quarter, sprawling out of the valley and up over the surrounding mountainsides

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

4 years

Out with Kak Ahmed, who has been teaching us the routes through the mountains here for 3 years. He is writing his diary of the day, and noting how the trails have changed since he last used them. In this particular case, it’s been 25 years...

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

2 years

Snuck out of Erbil on Wednesday night to spend a Thursday in the mountains

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

2 years

Mid-May rain on Bradost mountain in the Kurdistan region of Iraq. I’ve somehow missed large chunks of the spring here in previous years by getting stuck in cities, but couldn’t be happier to finally spend a full season out in the hills

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

Akre, in the Kurdistan region, from last week. Taken in the last leaking light of the day, a yellow moon rising above the shoulder of mountain that hunches protectively over the old town.

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

Two years ago, on my first visit to the marshes, I met this man: Abu Haider. He’s well-known here for his knowledge and charisma, and whenever we return we are fortunate to have him as a colleague, companion and guide for our work. #iraq #marshes

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

2 years

I promise this isn’t turning into an account where I just post pictures of breakfasts and dinners, but I will say that the Kurdish food we’re eating on this journey is as good a reason as any to come walking here…!

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

7 years

Much nonsense has been written recently about explorers (a few truths there for us all too, but swamped by ignorance/hostility.) @Benedictallen is an undeserving target- he is the real deal, and a genuinely thoughtful traveller. Let’s not demonise exploration for the sake of it

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

2 years

Finally summited Mount Halgurd- the highest climbable peak in all Iraq, and less than three hours from Erbil. It’s taken me a few years of living in Kurdistan to actually make it to the top: sweeping views to Iran on one side, and Turkey on the other. Achingly big and beautiful

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

4 years

Today we walked through a series of small villages west of Akre, each of which had the remains of a crumbling church. There was once a Chaldean community here, but they left a century ago. That’s all I found out. Would love to know how old the churches are originally- any ideas?

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

5 years

A gorge on the Rwanduz river, yesterday. One of many narrow, winding canyons in this area. I’m fortunate to have seen this river now in all four seasons, and it’s beautifully different and equally dramatic in each #kurdistan #twitterkurds

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

1 year

Another video from the eastern source of the Tigris, where the river disappears into this 800m-long tunnel. Where it emerges, more Assyrian reliefs are carved, alongside cuneiform proclamations of the glory of the kings.

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

Spring here feels very much on its way this last week or so...

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

5 years

I have a story today on @BBCFooC about Hazmi (pictured here); farmer, cameleer and poet. He’s one of many on this remarkable Yemeni island keeping alive the traditions of oral storytelling and Socotri poetry slams- find out more at 11.30am on @BBCRadio4

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

5 years

For the last couple of years, I’ve been working in Iraqi Kurdistan pretty regularly and wondering - could a long distant hiking trail be created here? Well, this year we started it! On 10-16 Nov we’re inviting you to join us for a few days of walking:

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

Moody skies, choppy waters, cold winds. Simmering morning light. A short journey in the marshes, from last week

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

Clear day on Korek Mountain and a great view of Hasan Beg, left, and Halgurd on the right with the twin peaks. Soran city in the valley, and the iconic V-shaped gorge at Bekhal. Anyone know the name of that canyon- is it just Bekhal too? Anyway- lots going on here- what a place!

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

6 years

The latest stop on our Kurdish road trip- Shanidar cave, high on the flanks of a mountain, and the spot where a significant number of Neanderthal remains were found. They’d chosen this as home, and it’s not hard to see why... #shotoniphone #kurdistan #iraq

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

5 years

Snow arrives on the mountains of Kurdistan. Our team has covered hundreds of kilometres on foot this year in pursuit of developing a long-distance walking trail. These pics are from the last 5 days with @laweenmhamad and @tom_r_allen . Still much more walking to come this year!

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

4 years

The Land Beyond, finally out in paperback on 6 August. Featuring a new cover and affordable price tag- I hope you like both! You can preorder now from your local bookshop 📚

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

A short video from the top of Korek Mountain this morning. Some much needed mountain therapy. This place still takes my breath away daily...

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

7 years

It's here! The first physical copy of my new book 'The Land Beyond.' Due to hit all good bookshops next month-

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

6 years

Woke up this morning thinking of these mountain trails along the Peaks of the Balkans. Not sure why, but it’s more than enough of an excuse to post these pictures... Happy Sunday morning, all! #PeaksoftheBalkans #Kosovo #Montenegro #Albania

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

Back on the Zagros Trail, briefly escaping my writing desk. Wonderful to have this kind of scenery and these pathways so close

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

4 years

My pictures here from the first time I visited Petra. I came on the Jordan Trail from the north, along the rim of wadi Siyyagh and arriving first at The Monastery. I’m not sure anything manmade has ever taken my breath away quite so dramatically

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

2 years

Really pleased that my story ‘The Last of the the Marsh Arabs’ won the Environmental category at the @SATWFoundation Lowell Thomas Journalism awards last night. Thank you! Delighted that the story continues to find new audiences

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

1 year

In the Saturday Magazine of today’s copy of @TheTimes : a long read from @whippletom on the Zagros Mountain Trail and how it came to be. Still a strange (but wonderful) feeling to see this project grow into something so wonderful

The surprising new walking holiday destination? Iraqi Kurdistan

British writer Leon McCarron wants us to see Iraqi Kurdistan in a new way — as a destination for trekking holidays

www.thetimes.com

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

6 years

Achill Island, County Mayo. I always say (with bias) that the north coast is the most beautiful part of Ireland/the world, but the west is pretty majestic too. I haven’t been to this part of Mayo since I was 10! (Shame @Al_Humphreys got in the way of the nice view...)

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 months

Happy Newroz/Nowruz to all those celebrating. Sadly I’m not in Akre this year, as I was when I took this picture. Great memories of joy and hope then. More important than ever right now to wish and call for a peaceful and positive year ahead.

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

I wrote about the Iraqi marshes for @NoemaMag . A host of factors have combined to make life challenging for those who live there, and to put the future of the wetlands in jeopardy. Illustrated beautifully by @e_garthwaite , with help from @humatdijlah 🙏

The Last Of The Marsh Arabs | NOEMA

What happens to a community and ecosystem at the nexus of geopolitical tensions and climate change? And can 6,000 years of history save them?

www.noemamag.com

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

4 years

Two days ago I drove back to Ireland to see my family for the first time since lockdown. Yesterday, I turned 34 and spent most of the day running and cycling around my favourite places in the world, surrounded by some of my favourite people. It’s good to be home :-)

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

Early morning at the market in Basra; fresh fish, dried fish, and just about everything else you could want. Another good reason to be up before dawn...

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

Erbil, tonight…

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

Happy New Year! Beautiful weather here in the Kurdistan region- enough even for a bracing swim in gloriously clear meltwater. Here’s to 2021 being much less apocalyptic than last year.

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

4 years

Today we’re at Dukan Lake- the largest in Iraq. Last time I was here we slept on an island somewhere in the middle. No such joy this time, but still a remarkable view. Beautiful walking on the ridgelines looking down, too. #kurdistan #iraq #twitterkurds

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

A few pictures from the trail yesterday. Shush and Gundki villages pictured. Not as dramatic as the visit of the Pope (which is what most people we met wanted to talk about, unsurprisingly) but still one of the most interesting days of walking I’ve done in a while

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

5 years

Lunchtime, crossing from one valley to the next. Just before the rain hit on the descent. Felt like we walked from autumn to winter over this pass #Kurdistan

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

21 days

Inside the Baron Hotel; Aleppo’s luxury hotel from the early C20th that hosted Atatürk, Lawrence, Charles de Gaulle and King Faisal. Final image is the view from Agatha Christie’s room towards the train station. It’s been closed since 2014, and seems unlikely to reopen

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

2 years

Dolma > any other trail snack

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

Boats coming in for the night. Beautiful evening light on the banks of the Euphrates in southern Iraq

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

Delighted to be in Erbil for Christmas, though I can’t help but always slightly miss home. Here’s the north coast of Northern Ireland, from Christmas a couple of years ago. Sure who wouldn’t miss this just a wee bit...!

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

4 years

Unable to get to where I was planning to be right now. Grumbling endlessly about my work being cancelled. Epiphany: just go ride my bike, because worrying at home won’t help. Thanks @Al_Humphreys for the suggestion! (Sorry that you fell off)

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

1 year

The Zangid Bridge at the very tip of NE Syria, and the Tigris river as it leaves SE Turkey. Only about 15km separates these locations, but they feel a world apart for many reasons. The bridge is C12th, with astrological symbols carved into black basalt at the base

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

4 years

Back in Ireland for Christmas. It’s a privilege to travel the world and work in beautiful places with wonderful people. It’s every bit as joyous to come back here, where I grew up, and spend the holidays walking in these hills with my phone turned off. Happy Christmas!

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

2 years

📣Announcement! 📣Between March 17 and May 26 2021, I co-led an expedition along the full length of the river Tigris, by boat, from source to sea. Our small team, local and international, spent 70 days listening to the stories of the river, told by those who live along its banks.

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

17 days

Following the Hejaz railway into northern Jordan. There haven’t been any trains running through Mafraq, Khirbet Samra and these other stations since 2011, but staff maintain the line regardless. The buildings and infrastructure are all original Ottoman constructions.

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

The Pope on arrival at Erbil this morning, greeted by faith leaders and flanked by political leaders. Powerful to feel the eyes of the world on Iraq for largely positive reasons this weekend.

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

Following these folks home...

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

1 year

Over the moon that #WoundedTigris is @StanfordsTravel Book of the Month! There’s 50 signed copies in store now in Covent Garden, for anyone in London who fancies reading before publication day… Thanks, Stanfords- the best thing to arrive to after a long flight!

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

Strong, cold easterly winds out in Dargala and Choman yesterday. Wonderful to have 17 hikers from a local club join to walk a stage of the Zagros Trail between villages. Summer was overrated anyway…bring on the snow!

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

Some more pictures from a trip to Zoragvan the other day: frozen branches in the creases of the valley; fresh kebabs cooking over coal; last light on the far ridgeline; the river picking its way downhill through winter tones

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

7 years

Being a writer is awesome! Here's how my rock 'n roll days look at the minute. Pretty cool, huh? It's okay to be jealous...

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

2 years

Yesterday we started a first-ever thru-hike of the Zagros Mountain Trail. It will take us 14 days, from east to west, and our goal is to identify the work that remains before the path is ready to welcome everyone else (you, perhaps!) Also exciting: @zagrostrail is on Twitter!

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

4 years

When I was writing my second book a couple of years ago I tried to capture what a single, glorious day of being an author looked like. Seems apt again and, in lieu of having anything insightful to say about coronavirus, I hope this expert guide to working from home is useful...😬

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

5 years

Today, en route to the highest pass on our proposed trail. @tom_r_allen found the ruins of an old church here using a 50+ year old map. There’s others scattered around in these valleys too, east of Rwanduz in #Kurdistan . As yet we know very little of them. Plenty to investigate

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

4 years

A short detour off our trail along the ridge of Bradost mountain and...😱

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

5 years

Arrived in Dubai for a literary festival. Found my books displayed with a view out to the Burj Khalifa. It all feels very grand. I hope no one finds out that I wrote this last book in my pants in an airless little room while chain drinking coffee and avoiding sunlight 🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

2 years

Big views today in-between the storms. Worth the long walk to the ridge line in driving rain, and rewarded for the effort with this panorama in a brief gap in the clouds

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

3 years

I love this! Sketches using open street map data. Here’s the village I grew up in (<1000 residents) and the city I’m in now (>1.5m!) Courtesy of @simongerman600 - one of my favourite Twitter accounts. The drawing tool link is in his tweet below

Simon Kuestenmacher

@simongerman600

3 years

This amazing little tool simply draws all streets in any city you want. As examples here are the town I grew up in (20k residents) and the city I live in (5M residents). Have a play with it. The exported screenshots make great desktop backgrounds. Source:

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

1 year

Beyond thrilled to see Wounded Tigris as the @SundayTimes Book of the Week! Extra pleased that it’s @justinmarozzi - a historian and writer whose work I love- that picks out the brutality of the story of the river, but also the beauty and hospitality that’s endured.

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

6 months

Oh, wow! This is very exciting- really proud to see Wounded Tigris here among such fine company. Congratulations to all, and thanks as ever to @StanfordsTravel for being uniquely wonderful in all they do!

Stanfords

@StanfordsTravel

6 months

The Edward Stanford Award 2024 Shortlist is finally here! Congratulations to all the incredible Authors that are Shortlisted for The Edward Stanford Travel Book of the Year Award 🏆👏 @curlewcalls @leonmccarron @parfitt_tom @Tim_Hannigan @GhaithAbdulahad Alice Albinia

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

4 years

Autumn in full swing out in Choman. What an overwhelmingly beautiful corner of the world this is

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

4 years

10yrs ago, I moved to New York with a year’s worth of savings and began trying to figure out how to cycle across a country. Many miles have passed since then. I hope I never forget the privileges that allowed to me have such an adventure. Happy New Year-here’s to the next decade!

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

4 years

Happy Nowruz! In these challenging times, here’s an ode to the mountains that I’ve come to know and love over the last years. In lieu of being there right now, sending virtual greetings and messages of hope to friends celebrating the new year in Iran, Kurdistan and elsewhere :-)

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

4 years

We’ve put our film from the Empty Quarter on YouTube. It’s about two people who spend 46 days with only each other for company, with questionable hygiene and lots of ruminations on life. I don’t recommend letting it inspire your self-isolation plans...

Alastair Humphreys

@Al_Humphreys

4 years

If you're looking for something to pass the time, the full-length version of Into The Empty Quarter is on YouTube:

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

1 month

Thanks to the @RGS_IBG for this award. I haven’t had a medal since I came third in a 10km race about a decade ago! Truly delighted though have years of work reporting on and championing natural history in Iraq and elsewhere recognised. Means the world, to me and those I work with

Royal Geographical Society (with IBG)

@RGS_IBG

1 month

Congratulations to Leon McCarron ( @leonmccarron ) on being awarded the Cherry Kearton Medal and Award for dedication to unearthing the importance, beauty, and fragility of natural history.

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Leon McCarron

@leonmccarron

1 year

Sad to be leaving N. Ireland again already, but wonderful to come home to talk about the Tigris and Iraq. Lots of fascinating conversations here around river protection, power-sharing and ineffective governance (+ great pride everywhere in our own river champion @Feargal_Sharkey )

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